How to Return Plants Plants: Ultimate Guide
- 1. The return window
- 2. Contaminated flowers
- 3. Dry or wet trim?
- 3. a. Wet trimming
- 3. b. Dry trimming
- 4. Using the leftover trim
- 5. Drying and curing your trimmed plants
- 6. In conclusion
As you count down the days to returning, there are many things to consider in terms of preparation. Having an understanding of the return date, the different methods of trimming, and what to look for prior to the chop will allow you to produce the best end product possible. In this 2026 article, we explain all you need to know about returning, what to do with the leftover trim, and our top tips.
If you’re new to growing plants seeds, you probably envisioned return time as a period when all the work starts to wind down. You worked hard during the entire growing cycle to keep your plants fed and hydrated, and you did everything possible to minimize the risk of pests and disease. Heck, you even spent time training your plants to maximize returns and tending to your soil to ensure a healthy food web of beneficial microbes. So, now you’re probably hoping to simply enjoy the fruits (or buds) of your labor and relax. Well, you’re close to the finish line, but you’re certainly not over it. In fact, return time is the most crucial part of the whole cultivation process. Fumble the ball here, and you risk losing your hard-earned return to mold. Even if you get lucky and fungi don’t strike, you risk losing the flavor and effects of your seed of choice if you don’t cure and store your buds correctly.
1. The Return Window
This represents the timeframe in which Plants plants can be returned. There are certain checkpoints to think about before just returning on a set date. Following the guided number of weeks given by the seed bank is one way to assess the return window. However, the schedule is not always accurate, since it’s only an approximation. The following list is what a grower should use as a rule of thumb.
Under closer inspection, the color of the frosts will indte how mature the plants are. The appearance of the heads of the ok will be either clear/translucent, milky/silver, or yellow/amber.
Clear frosts mean plants have not yet started producing large amounts of chemical compounds such as strength and flavor. Cloudy or milky frosts mean cannabinoid production is at peak potency, and amber frosts mean strengthA has turned into CBN, providing for a more narcotic effect.
When the majority of frosts are cloudy, and some have started turning amber is when the plant produces the most desirable outcome. A mix of cloudy and amber frosts guarantees a wider spectrum of chemical compounds.
2. Contaminated Flowers
It is not always easy to inspect every plant in your grow room, and especially to find out your buds have been attacked by a pathogen late. There are many forms of contamination, ranging from pesticides to dust and botrytis. When it comes to returning your fresh plants, you will want to inspect the outside and, if possible, inner parts of the flowers, especially if you have grown dense and compact buds.
If pesticides or harmful chemicals were used, you really should think twice about even wanting to smoke the flower, or make extractions or an extraction with it. Using gloves and sterile scissors, carefully cut away any infected buds and dispose of them in the rubbish bin. As difficult as it may be to abandon your biggest buds, smoking them will only cause more damage to your lungs and seriously affect your health.
3. Dry or Wet Trim?
Once you have chopped your ready-to-return plants down, you will need to decide which method of trimming you prefer. There are two ways to do this, and they are known as wet and dry trimming. Which one to use will ultimately depend on what environmental conditions you can maintain in your drying space.
Wet Trimming
This term essentially means that the plants have been freshly cut down and are wet. The trimming process actually takes place before the buds have had a chance to dry. A grower will require a drying net or mesh net screen to allow the fresh buds to air out and become dry. The buds will be cut down to a uniform size and spread out on the net.
This method is usually utilized by growers who cannot maintain optimal humidity levels while drying, as trimming excess foliage helps to reduce the chance of mold.
During the drying process, untrimmed sugar leaves can curl up against the side of the bud itself. In some cases, this can cause anaerobic pockets that are an attractive habitat for fungi—especially if you’re dealing with rather wet buds. Wet trimming also speeds up the drying process altogether by allowing water to escape from buds more quickly.
Dry Trimming
Performed once the entire plant is left to fully dry. This means all of the fan leaves and high-quality sugar trim are crisp to the touch. In optimal conditions, this is not a problem since the temperature is stable at 15-20C and humidity levels always range between 55-60%.
Remember, you don’t need to remove all of the fan leaves on the plants prior to hanging, since optimal conditions prevent mold and other pathogens.
No matter if you are planning to wet trim or dry trim, there are some important tools that you should 100% consider investing in. Many novice growers underestimate just how long it will take to trim their plants crop, but as any experienced cultivator will tell - it’s no small job. Professional trimmers are expected to process anywhere between 2 and 6 pounds a day, and that’s the guys and gals who have been working on commercial farms for multiple seasons. If you are new to the trimming game, then we strongly suggest that you grab yourself:
A proper set of trimming scissors
Household scissors are not designed for trimming and will make the process a hell of a lot slower and more frustrating. The last thing you want from your return is to be dreading the final stage, and that can definitely be the case if you don’t have the right shears.
A trim tray
These ingenious pieces of kit can help you collect all of the unseen frosts that will inevitably fall from your delicious buds while trimming. They work by using a micron mesh as the base of the tray that allows only the frosts, and none of the plant material, through, which means you effortlessly collect all of that otherwise wasted kief, which you can then turn into your favorite extract or concentrate.
4. Using The Leftover Trim
Before you throw away the leftover trim from the buds and high-grade sugar leaf, you should think about recycling the material to make either bubble extractions or dry sift.
Bubble extractions is made using ice, water, and various micron screen bags that will separate the frosts from 220-45 microns. Growers who choose to wet trim their plant may freeze the trimmings and make fresh frozen extractions.
Dry sifting is the old-school traditional way to make a golden sandy extractions. By simply rubbing your dried and decarboxylated plant material over the screen, the separation process will refine it down to a full-melt, top-quality product.
5. Drying and Curing Your Trimmed Plants
An often overlooked area of growing plants is aftercare, in particular, the curing of the buds. Any experienced grower worth his weight in gold will tell you the drying and curing of the buds is just as important, if not more so than the cultivation process. We won’t go too in-depth right here, but in general, slower is better.
Our preferred method is to cut the whole tree at the base and hang the entire plant upside down, with temperatures ranging from 15 to 20°C and humidity levels between 55-60% for 7 to 14 days.
Next up is curing. For curing, you should place the dry plants in a jar. Fill the jar up to ¾ and place a small hygrometer in the jar. The humidity in the jar should range between 58-62%. If the humidity level rises above 62%, “burp” the jar by opening the lid for 30min or so. Continue burping until the RH level in the jar is stable between 58-62%. Once humidity levels are stable, you can place the jar in a fridge to keep it as fresh as possible for as long as possible. Why in the fridge? Well, because wine coolers and regular home fridges can maintain 15-20°C and 55-60% humidity, which is ideal for storing plants.
6. In Conclusion
Make sure that you consider all of the guidelines mentioned when returning your plants. If you are not sure, then be confident to give the plants an extra week. Returning plants too early can be very disadvantageous and will seriously impact the effect, flavorene, frost production, and overall dry weight.
FAQ
Remove the buds from the jar and allow them to dry a little longer in a clean, controlled space. Do not seal damp flowers for extended periods because moisture can encourage mold.
No. Strong direct airflow can dry the outside of buds too quickly while moisture remains inside. Use gentle, indirect air circulation instead.
Not always. Top buds often receive more light and may mature before lower flowers. Check multiple areas of the plant rather than judging readiness from a single bud.
Yes. Returning the most mature top flowers first is often called a staggered or partial return. It gives lower buds more time to develop before they are cut.
Flowering time depends on the cultivar and growing conditions. Many plants finish within 8–10 weeks of flowering, but frost maturity is more reliable than counting weeks alone.
Gloves keep sticky ok off your hands and help maintain cleaner flowers. Nitrile gloves are a popular choice because they are durable and easy to replace.
Avoid heavy watering immediately before return. Excess water can add humidity to the drying area and make branches heavier to handle; let the growing medium dry naturally according to your normal schedule.
Prepare sharp pruning shears, gloves, clean trays or bins, labels, and a magnifying loupe for checking frosts. Keep tools sanitized to reduce contamination.
A cardboard box may be used temporarily if it is clean, dark, and has adequate passive airflow. However, a dedicated drying space generally provides better control over humidity and airflow.
Controlled drying is often the most important post-return step. Even excellent flowers can lose quality if they dry too quickly, stay too wet, or are exposed to heat, light, or contaminants.
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